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The two boys stood on the sidewalk in front of the Consulate. Alex turned and looked about, curiosity battling with eagerness inside him. The bustling nature of the city, people filling the sidewalks, cars and buses doing the same on the streets, the tall buildings, all had a distinctly familiar yet startlingly different appearance than similar sights back home, and their very strangeness stoked his excitement. He turned to look at Gavin. “So, herewe are in Hong Kong – what are we doing first?”

“I’d say let’s do the Central Escalator first because it’s nearby, it’s easy, and it won’t take long. It’s a pretty long walk from here. We should hop on the MTR and go the one stop to Central and go from there.”

“Okay. Lead on,” said Alex excitedly. Twelve minutes later they were exiting Central station.

Alex looked around, and found himself stunned at what he saw. He’d seen Kowloon the day before, and even seen Central from their hotel window. The trip to the embassy hadn’t given him much of a view since they had been mostly underground on the MTR and walking on secluded roads. This, was... well he wasn’t sure what it was. It was tall. Really tall. Everything towered into the sky. “I am overwhelmed. This is beyond description.”

“Yeah, it is at that. Hong Kong blows away any other place in the world when it comes to tall. There are plenty of taller buildings, but there are more tall buildings here than anywhere else. Hundreds of them, pretty much all over 50 stories, many over 60, and some over 70. The one thing this city doesn’t have is much space, so they compensate by building the only place they can: up.”

Alex was looking around still. “What’re those?” he asked pointing.

Gavin grabbed his arm and pulled it down, “Don’t ever point with one finger, especially that one, in Hong Kong. That’s unspeakably rude throughout China. Use all four fingers at once and gesture. Anyway, to answer your question, they’re pedestrian walkways. You walk above the streets, and then take the stairs down when you’re on the block you want. These walkways are all over Central.”

“Man, this is so cool. It’s so English. I mean, they’re driving on the wrong side of the road, the signs are all in English, everything is English, even more so than Kowloon. Yet, at the same time, it’s different.”

“Yeah, Hong Kong is about the most truly international city, ever.”

“Alright, Alex. We’re going to go up, and walk.”

Alex looked at the street sign. “Connaught Road? You have got to be kidding me! It’s like being in London.”

“That was the idea. So the colonists could feel right at home. It works, doesn’t it?”

“Yep. Wow. My god, there’s a 7-11!”

“Yeah? So? The place is lousy with them. They’re on nearly every corner.”

“They sell chocolates, right? I bet they have Smarties.”

“Okay, go on in. Here’s a few Hong Kong dollars. We’ll have to get you your own local money, too.”

“Thanks,” said Alex, running in and buying a box of Smarties. Gavin waited outside, obviously unimpressed with a 7-11. Alex offered Gavin some Smarties, who took a few. “Listen, I hate to keep taking money from you, but since we’re here such a short time, can I just pay you back in pounds when we get to England? I hate to change money for just a day.”

“Sure, that’s no problem.”

“Come on, Gavin. Let’s go. I want to see this city,” Alex said starting off at a fast pace.

“Um, Alex,” shouted Gavin, “maybe you want to go the right direction?”

Alex stopped dead in his tracks, and trotted back. “Sorry. I got carried away.”

“That was just funny,” said Gavin, smiling. “We’re going up Des Voeux Road to Queen Victoria Street. That’s where the Central Escalators start. They go about half-way up the mountain to Conduit Road in the mid-levels. They reverse direction based on which way the commute is going. They go down until 10 or so the morning and up the rest of the day. At the lower levels, they have one in each direction. They are lined with shops and restaurants. There are landings every few blocks so you can get off and go look at anything that might interest you. Everyone should see it once. It’s an interesting thing, but when you’re bored, we can stop and walk back. Or, we don’t have to do it all.”

Of course Alex wanted to do everything. So, they got on the first escalator, and in the custom of all escalators, they stood on the left side while people walked on the right. Alex mostly looked at the all the familiar things they passed: Starbucks, 7-11, Pizza Express, Boots, Kentucky Fried Chicken. He commented, but Gavin seemed uninterested in them. “What’s wrong Gavin?”

“Nothing. I’m more into looking at the stuff I can’t see at home: the weird Chinese shops, the real estate ads for $20 million dollar apartments, and of course people watching. That’s what interests me. I didn’t mean to dampen your enthusiasm,” said Gavin apologetically.

“Don’t worry, you didn’t. I think this is cool. I just think the differences are more remarkable for the similarities.”

Gavin and Alex slowly made their way upward, each looking at the sights that interested them the most. They were side by side, and sometimes they would make a comment to the other, but mostly they worked their way upward. Sometimes, the smells of the restaurants would tantalize them or terrify them. 

At one landing, the one by Caine Road, they decided to get off and look at one of the more interesting shops. It was distinctly Chinese and in it were stacks of what Alex thought were play money. “Gavin, what is this stuff? It says Bank of Hell.”

“Damned if I know.”

“Did you know that’s the first question I’ve asked you that you haven’t had an answer to? That surprises me.”

“Why? I don’t know everything.”

“I guess I know that now. I was sure you were my own personal copy of Encyclopaedia Britanica.”

The shopkeeper gave a laugh. She was a very short, elderly Chinese woman. “Those notes,” she said in flawless English, “are for the ancestor ceremony. It is our custom to burn them and thus send them into the afterlife so our ancestors can use them to buy whatever they might need.”

“That’s fascinating,” said Gavin, after a pause trying to decide if she was telling the truth or not. “I think I might buy a pack to give out back home.”

“No! You mustn’t. It’s very bad luck. By giving the note to the living you wish death upon them.”

They thanked the shopkeeper and continued their climb towards the top. They reached Conduit Road and looked around.

“It’s beautiful up here. You wouldn’t know that it’s part of such a busy city. And the air is clear, and of course the view is spectacular,” said Alex smiling at Gavin before adding “and the company is enjoyable, too”

That caused Gavin to smile back. “Thanks, the feeling is mutual. Anyway, we should start walking back, before I decide to kiss you right here in public. The street’s deserted, but I wouldn’t do that to you. You’d probably freak out on me.”

“You bet I would. I am against all public displays of affection between any gender in any age group.”

“Alex, I gotta say that’s about the weirdest hang-up I’ve ever heard.”

“Don’t worry. I’m sure if you stay friends with me you’ll find some that are even more bizarre and unusual. I’m a pretty fucked up guy, you know.”

“No, I don’t believe that. You’re a bit odd, maybe even eccentric, but you are not fucked-up.”

Alex smiled at the compliment but remained silent. He gave Gavin a quick hug and broke it before Gavin could even respond.

“Come on, it’s a long walk to the tram.”

“The tram?”

“Yes, that’s how we get from the mid-levels to the peak. You’d probably have a coronary trying to walk up there. It’s only about a mile, but it’s a 400-metre incline, and the roads aren’t straight. Besides, it’s a very cool tram ride with some fantastic views.”

“How do we get there?”

“I looked this up at the hotel, because, believe it or not I’ve never gone from here to there before. We go down to Upper Albert Road and follow that to Garden Road and then it’s down that a way,” said Gavin gesturing in the general direction.

“Is it far?” asked Alex.

“About a mile. But it’s not flat or straight. But having an idea of the neighbourhoods, I’m sure it will be a great walk. Are you up for it, or do we want to embarrass ourselves and take a cab?”

“I’ve got two feet and they are both currently working.”

“How lucky for you, then! Come on!”

They walked and at their slow sightseeing pace, so it was nearly an hour’s walk. Alex was captivated and followed Gavin unquestioningly. Gavin wasn’t as familiar with this part of the city so he didn’t have much to comment on, and just looked around himself, soaking in what he saw. They finally got to the tram station, and it was packed with tourists. Alex looked around in the gift shop while Gavin got in the ticket queue.

Soon they were in the queue to board the tram. A tram left every ten minutes or so, hence it wouldn’t be a terribly long wait. Sure enough, they were quickly on board the tram and on their way up to the top of Victoria Peak. Gavin told him everything he could expect to see at the top and it only served to make Alex even more eager to get there.

On the short ride up, they looked out the tram windows and marvelled at the glorious views of the wealthier areas of what was already one of the wealthiest places on earth. Alex remarked to Gavin, “Did you see the prices of the apartments advertised in the windows of the estate agents?”

“Yeah, hard to believe them even after accounting for the exchange rate.”

“Hard to believe? Impossible’s more like it. They had an apartment, with a view granted, that wasn’t much bigger than my bedroom and it was over a million dollars.”

They disembarked from the tram after it pulled into the station. Gavin added, “In the guidebook, it mentions that the most expensive house in the world is right here on the Peak. They turned down an offer of 900 million dollars back in 1997. It’s in the book of world records.”

“900 million? As in almost a billion dollars? I’d sell anything for that much money.”

“Even Nicky?” asked Gavin.

“Fuck you. That’s not a fair question!” exclaimed Alex angrily. “Why’d you have to ruin the moment?”

“Whoa! Sorry. SORRY! Maybe I was a little out of line, but I was just joking. You’re way off with that reaction.”

Alex stormed off towards one of the lookout points that surrounded the tram station and stared off at Victoria Harbour, and across into Kowloon, admiring the view to help calm him down. He was silent even as he felt Gavin approach which caused him to tense up. Gavin said nothing, and just stood next to him leaning on the wall.

After a while, Alex got up and moved to a different lookout point, this time looking out over the West Lamma Channel where the gigantic ocean freighters piled high with containers could be seen sailing to and from Victoria Harbour. He felt Gavin come near him and silently stare out. He turned to him, noticed they were alone for the moment, and asked, “Are you waiting for an apology?”

“Yes. I rather think I am. I already gave you one. And you acted like a petulant little boy.”

“It’s a sore subject for me as you might well imagine.”

“Alex, that just doesn’t excuse it. If we’re going to be friends and stay friends, shit like that just can’t happen. If we end up more than friends, then that will destroy anything we build.”

“You’re right. I apologize, but you can’t joke about Nicky. You just can’t.”

“I think I figured that out.”

“Are we still okay?” asked Alex, the insecurity obvious in his voice.

“Yeah. That was pretty much all you, Alex.”

They said nothing else and finished walking around the peak, admiring the sights, and then walking around the mall that was on the peak. They agreed it was a really tacky place to put a mall, but being teenagers it had some lure for them. They left. disappointed in the selection. but managed to get a snack at the food court. They got in the queue and took the tram back down.

They arrived at the tram terminus, and Gavin said, “You know, Alex, it’s a really long walk to our next stop and we’ve already been walking all day. Maybe you want to take a taxi?”

“Define long.”

“Over a mile, but since the roads are curvy it’s probably closer to two.”

“What about the MTR?”

“We’re halfway between two stops. But where we’re going isn’t so close to the MTR either.”

“I love walking, but if you’re too tired we can take a cab.”

“I accept your challenge, then, you mealy-mouthed pretender to the throne. We shall walk, and then when you beg for mercy, I shall hail a cab.”

“Asshole,” said Alex with a laugh.

They walked down Garden Road all the way to Queens Road. Alex spied one of the famous double-decker trams and asked Gavin about it. “You know, they remind me of the old streetcars from San Francisco combined with the double-decker busses from London.”

“It looks old and it is old -- another remnant of the British Empire. They’re from the early 1900s and it’s all original as well as being the only double-decker tram system in the world.”

“Can we go for a ride?”

“Certainly but it’ll only be for a few blocks. We don’t want to go past our destination.”

“Cool. Let’s do it.”

They doubled back and went down to street level from the overpass where they had been walking, and got on the next tram. Gavin paid for both of them and they held on as the tram rolled away.

“I wish to point out that since it was you who called for us to ride, you have been defeated in your pretensions to the throne. I remain king.”

“You’re so weird sometimes. Where do you come up with this stuff?”

“A guy has to have fun, Alex.”

“Sure. Fun is okay. I’m just not sure how it’s connected to your weirdness.”

The tram stopped, Gavin signalled this was their stop and they jumped off with a slew of other passengers and followed the herd down Pedder Street towards the harbour. They went to the pier marked “Star Ferry Terminal” and Gavin bought tickets. Gavin bought them first-class tickets, which still came out to under a dollar.

“So are you going to make me beg for the story or are you going to tell me?”

“I’m surprised you’re not bored with my Tour Guide impersonation so far. But, since you asked, it’s another old relic dating back from the late 1800s. The boats themselves are from the 1950s, though. It’s just a nice view where you can sit and see old, new, and everything uniquely Hong Kongian all at once. It’s a short ride, and then we’re near the hotel.”

“Hotel?”

“I’ve got to rest, and besides it’s getting late. We’re going to rest, then have dinner, and then go to the Temple night market.”

“What’s that?”

“Better you see it than I fail at explaining it. If you need an idea, think of an old bazaar.”

“Sounds fun.”

The ferry slowly plied the waters of Victoria Harbour. The long benches were crowded with people both on the lower decks and the upper first-class decks. The ferry, thought Alex, was dangerously overcrowded. The ride didn’t last long and soon they were docked at the other side.

They walked towards the hotel quickly as they both were feeling more and more tired by the minute. It had been a long, full, and draining day on many levels. They were in the hotel ten minutes later.

The message light was flashing when they got into the room, so Gavin called in to collect the messages. There were two. One was from his father asking if everything was delivered all right and if everything was on schedule. The other was from the front desk informing them that a second room was available.

“About the room, Alex. They have one.”

“Tell them never mind.”

Gavin smiled realizing what that meant, and called down to the front desk and informed them they wouldn’t need the room after all, but thanked them all the same. Gavin then called his father’s mobile and left a message letting him know all was going according to schedule. He requested his father call Mrs. Maitland and let her know that as well.

They both lay down on the bed. Gavin flicked on the TV and soon both boys had dozed off.